Biking to Leh: Day 6

July 22, 2012 SUNDAY

It was too cold in Sarchu. We woke up early at 0600 Hrs. Me and Natwar were unable to sleep properly in the night. Inside the tent it was not that cold as the bed was good and there were blankets too but altitude sickness resulted in insomnia. Without taking shower we both started biking towards Leh as yesterday we were unable to make phone calls to our family and the army satellite phone was also not working. Early morning driving was a beautiful experience. We were supposed to reach Leh anyhow because there was no contact with the outer world for a day. The scenic beauty was simply awesome and it was like flying in dreams, looking at the natures creations that was never imagined. We were speechless before the nature's showcase. We pass the whole life in an illusion and most of us miss looking the beautiful part of the world. We drove on the Gata loops that is made of 21 loops and said to be haunted. Just before Pang, you feel like being at the place shown in Arabian nights called Kangla Jal. At Pang, which is the worlds highest army transit camp, you will find some restaurants and tents. We had lunch there but one thing disappointed me for the whole way and that was the attitude of the public. They wait for a chance to charge you as much as they can. Well I know that this area is emerging as a tourist hub on globe but the localities have to deal with this properly otherwise those who visit once will not visit another time and will also not recommend anyone to go there. After having lunch, we moved on. Again have to drive up towards "More Plains" which is a 40 kms section. Half of the road is well build but rest half is terrible. I found this section as the most difficult section of the journey till now. Indian army is constructing roads here to promote fast access. The road is getting constructed and it was difficult to drive there. At some places there was no road at all and we have to drive on sand. There was no water at all and I remember I covered 5-7 kms by walking on the road that is 15,400 feet above the sea level. Here you can easily suffer from dehydration, sunburn, cold and altitude sickness at the same time. After this again there was an upward driving towards the world's second highest motor able pass called "Tanglang La" which is 17,480 foot above the sea level. This place I call as heaven. When you stand there and look around, you see snow covered mountains and feel like being on the top of the world. From there we rolled down towards Leh and unfortunately got our bike tyre punctured. We were in middle of nowhere and there was no one coming down as it was little bit late to expect any biker to come across our way. We forgot the air pump at the bike shop so had no other option rather then waiting for some help. Few trucks passed by but no one was having accessories that might help us. We both started losing hopes for any help and decided to take off air from the tyre and leave the bike there after covering it with the plastic that we carried with us. After this we were thinking to go Leh by taking lift from any vehicle that passes by but fortunately three bikers came and stopped for help. They were really very helpful. They changed the tyre tube but now the problem was that they were not having air pump. After some time, a car driver stopped and he was having an air pump. After a break down of almost 3 hours we started again. It was late now and we have to reach Leh as soon as possible. As we came down of Tanglang La pass, the scenic beauty changed completely. This place have tress and human inhabitation also begun with Buddhist mostaries coming in the way. It was like being in a different land. We were driving along with river Indus that was the source of the oldest civilization of mankind called Harappa and Mohenjo-daro civilization. Along with that the golden rays of sunset. We reached a village called Rumtsey. There you will find phones but your cellphones will not work. Made a call to family and drove towards Leh. Before Leh we reached Upshi where there is a customs and Excise taxation check post. Stop here for checking of vehicles. We thought of staying in Upshi only that day as Leh was 50 kms ahead, it was late and dark and we were tired too. We also got our clutch wired broken. Finally we decided to drive till Leh on the same day. With the broken clutch wires, we used to start bike in a different way. First drive using own leg power and when the bike gets some speed, put in the first gear and the bike starts working on its engine power. At some places people pushed our bike. Finally reached Leh at 2200 hrs and this place was not crowded like Manali at 2200 hrs. Most of the tourists were non Indians and a Spanish couple recognized us as they saw us when we were waiting for help at the time our bike got punctured. They passed by us in taxi that time. We took a room in 200 Rs. with hot water facility in a rest house called Lungskor Guest House and the co ordinates of this place are 34.1667N, 77.5826E. After reaching Leh we came to know that there may be power cut form 2300 Hrs till morning every night because of security reasons. We unloaded the bikes as soon as possible and went to the market to find something to eat but unfortunately most of the restaurants were closed. Finally we found a shop and took some milk and biscuits. Returned back to hotel and slept after taking shower. Driving with a broken bike for almost 250 kms crossing the passes that are among the highest motor able passes in the world, awesome job Natwar.

Suggestions for today are:

Leave from Sarchu as early as possible because night stay in between Sarchu and Leh is not at all a good idea.
Make sure you have some eatables with you because in case you have to do night stay then you are not hungry.
Make sure you have enough water with you because most of the area don't have snow or water.
After Pong the way is very bad. Make sure you don't drive a lot on stones because your bike tyres may got punctured.
Telephone is available at Rumtsey.
Don't miss the wonderful photography from Rumtsey till Leh.
Respect the army camps that you come across in the way. Don't make much noises there.